Regulatory charter
SUMMARY
-
LIST OF RESTRICTED INGREDIENTS IN ABBI 5 PRODUCTS
-
EXAMPLES OF PRODUCT RATING MOBILE APPLICATIONS WHERE YOU CAN FIND
-
The purpose of this document is to provide information on the prohibitions and restrictions of ingredients that the Research & Development of ABBI SAS integrates into the development specifications of its products.
It complements:
-
European cosmetic regulations according to Regulation No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of November 30, 2009, and its annexes, consolidated on March 1, 2022,
-
The regulations specific to each country because we want our products to comply with “WorldWide*” regulations.
*To do this, our R&D laboratory relies on the various regulatory systems
international such as for example:
-
COSING – Cosmetic Ingredient database – Ingredients and Fragrance inventory,
-
SIN LIST – Substitute It Now! List
-
REACH – Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals,
-
SCCS – Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety,
-
CTFA – Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association,
-
PCPC – Personal Care Products Council,
-
FDA – Food and Drug Administration,
-
Proposition 65 – Safe Drinking Water and Toxix Enforcement Act of 1986,
-
CFDA – China Food and Drug Administration.
Please note that our formulation is intended to be open, that is, flexible and alert, both to active innovations and to media speculation related to the harmful powers of ingredients. Also, this Black List is not fixed and is constantly evolving, adapting to guarantee and satisfy the safety of our consumers.
This document also aims to highlight the naturalness of the products since our internal charter requires at least 95% NATURALNESS.
-
-
-
LIST OF INGREDIENTS PROHIBITED IN ABBI PRODUCTS
REASONS
IDENTIFICATION OF MPS
MP CLASS
and/or INGREDIENTS
Health :
Classified or suspected components
" ENDOCRINE DISRUPTORS "
Antioxidant
Depigmenting agent
Conservative
Phthalate
Additive
UV filter
chemicals
Allergen present in perfumes
Health :
Contact allergy
dichlorophenoxyphenol)
Conservative
Allergen present in perfumes
-
ButylHydroxyToluene ( BHT ),
-
Butylated HydroxyAnisole, or ButylHydroxyAnisole ( BHA )
-
Resorcinol ( CI 76505 ): 1,3 – Benzenediol, resorcin, 1,3- Dihydroxybenzene
-
M-Hydroquinone,
-
M-Phenylene Diol,
-
3-Hydroxyphenol,
-
4 M-Dihydroxybenzene
-
Glycol Ethers including PHENOXYETHANOL,
-
PARABENS : Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Sodium Butylparaben, Sodium Propylparaben, Potassium Butylparaben, Potassium Propylparaben (including Parahydroxybenzoate or propyl p-hydroxybenzoate, Sodium propylparaben sodium)
-
Phthalates: DIETHYL PHTHALATE (DEP)
-
Alkylphenols (AP): NONYLPHENOL and any name derived from NONOXYNOL
-
Dihyroxybenzophenone ( BENZOPHENONE-1 ),
-
Oxybenzone ( BENZOPHENONE-3 ),
-
4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor ,
-
ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE ,
-
LILIAL (Butylphenyl Methylpropional)
-
Methylisothiazolinone ( MIT ),
-
MethylChloroIsoThiazolinone ( MCIT ),
-
TRICLOSAN (5-chloro-2-(2,4-
-
Alpha-Isomethyl ionone,
-
Amyl cinnamal,
-
Amyl Cinnamyl alcohol,
-
benzyl benzoate,
-
benzyl cinnamate,
-
benzyl salicylate,
-
butylphenyl methylpropional,
-
cinnamon,
-
cinnamon alcohol,
RQ : EXCEPT if expected quality of wait not
damage , to be justified
Hair dye
Health :
No added value for the skin
Environment: Poor biodegradability
any derivative of Siloxane
Silicone
Environment :
Petrochemicals
Health :
Risk of cancer by accumulation
Mineral oil
Health :
Possible human carcinogen when inhaled or ingested repeatedly at nanometer size
White pigment
Health :
May be irritating to skin and eyes Environment: Polluting manufacturing process
RQ : If it is impossible to do without, it is incorporated at the minimum of its required concentration – action to be justified
Anionic sulfated surfactant
– cleaning agent
-
citral,
-
citronellol,
-
coumarin,
-
eugenol,
-
evernia furfuracea extract,
-
evernia prunastri extract,
-
farnesol,
-
geraniol,
-
hexyl cinnamal,
-
hydroxycitronellal,
-
hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde,
-
isoeugenol,
-
limonene,
-
linalool,
-
methyl 2-octynoate,
-
P-Phenylenediamine and analogous compounds (whose name includes P-Phenylenediamine),
-
METHICONE, DIMETHICONE, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, CYCLOTETRASILOXANE, CYCLOMETHICONE and
-
MINERAL OILS and SYNTHETIC HYDROCARBONS
-
TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891) [nano]
-
SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (SLS), AMMONIUM LAURYL SULFATE and LAURETH SULFATE
-
-
LIST OF RESTRICTED INGREDIENTS IN ABBI PRODUCTS
REASONS
IDENTIFICATION
MP CLASS
and/or INGREDIENTS
Health :
Classified or suspected components
" ENDOCRINE DISRUPTORS "
RQ : Authorized at a maximum of 0.5% in current formulations then strictly prohibited in all new formulations from April 2022
Conservatives
Health :
Contact allergy in eye contour application
RQ : Authorized at a maximum of 0.3% in current formulations then strictly prohibited in all new formulations from April 2022
Health :
Contact allergy
RQ : EXCEPT if expected quality of wait not
damage , to be justified
Allergens present in perfumes
Environment :
Deforestation
triglycerides, Coco-caprylate/caprate
Emollient oil
-
Salicylic Acid,
-
1,2-hexanediol,
-
Alpha-Isomethyl ionone,
-
Amyl cinnamal,
-
Amyl Cinnamyl alcohol,
-
benzyl benzoate,
-
benzyl cinnamate,
-
benzyl salicylate,
-
butylphenyl methylpropional,
-
cinnamon,
-
cinnamon alcohol,
-
citral,
-
citronellol,
-
coumarin,
-
eugenol,
-
evernia furfuracea extract,
-
evernia prunastri extract,
-
farnesol,
-
geraniol,
-
hexyl cinnamal,
-
hydroxycitronellal,
-
hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde,
-
isoeugenol,
-
limonene,
-
linalool,
-
methyl 2-octynoate,
-
PALM oil and its derivatives:
-
“Capryl” examples: Caprylyl capric
-
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Cetearyl olivate
Isopropyl palmitate
RQ : If not possible, only use RSPO Mass Balance (Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil) certified grades.
Health :
May be irritating to skin
Environment: Polluting manufacturing process
AMMONIUM LAURYL SULFATE
RQ : If it is impossible to do without, it is incorporated at the minimum of its required concentration – action to be justified
Anionic sulfated surfactant
– cleaning agent
Health :
Cancer risk and contact allergy
Emulsifying agent, preservative booster and humectant
Environment :
Persistence
Exfoliating agent, synthetic polymer
Health :
Contact allergy and systemic toxicity
RQ : Systematic dosage according to the ICP-MS method, defined tolerance threshold – to be justified
Present in raw materials
of origin
mineral
-
“Lauryl” examples: Lauryl glucoside,
-
“Stear” examples: Glyceryl Distearate
-
“Cetearyl” examples: Cetearyl alcohol,
-
“Palm” examples: Sodium palmate,
-
“Myrist” examples: Isopropyl myristate
-
“Dodec” examples: Dodecanol
-
SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (SLS) and
-
PolyEthylene Glycol (PEG), PolyPropylene Glycol (PPG), Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol and its PPG/PEG copolymer derivatives
-
Plastic beads and all compounds considered to be plastic microbeads
-
Heavy metals nickel (Ni), arsenic (As), cadmium (Cd), mercury (Hg), lead (Pb)
-
-
WHAT DO WE MEAN BY MINIMUM 95% NATURALNESS?
In cosmetic products, it is possible to claim your product in several ways:
-
Organic or "bio" cosmetic product, whose origin is mainly natural, can claim to be "organic" only if it strictly complies with the legislation in force in the country and with the recognized labels and certification bodies (in France Cosmebio, Cosmos, Ecocert),
-
Natural cosmetic product , which can be labeled "natural" if it meets published specifications and/or if it complies with the rules in use in the country or with the verification and control bodies. It is nevertheless possible to develop a natural product or one of natural origin without having it certified (in France and internationally Cosmos, ISO 16128).
Thus, naturalness can be expressed in two ways:
-
With the use and communication of certified Labels, as is the case with a product
organic cosmetics,
-
With the application of the ISO 16128 Standard, as is the case for a natural or naturally-derived cosmetic product that decides not to be certified,
To formulate its products, at ABBI we have chosen not to rely on a certification body but rather on the ISO 16128 Standard.
Thus, this standard is a text aimed at harmonizing and regulating the practices of players in the cosmetics market, our practices. It is an international standard serving as a common basis.
With this standard, we cosmetic companies agree on the one hand on the definition of the Natural, Natural Origin, Organic and Organic Origin content of products based on the characterization of the ingredients and on the other hand, on the definition of the very precise calculation methods to be used to determine the percentage of naturalness of ingredients and natural and/or organic cosmetic products.
To define the natural part of a product or an ingredient, the ISO 16128 standard has therefore established a
list of four categories of ingredients:
-
Natural ingredients,
-
Ingredients of natural origin,
-
Organic ingredients,
-
Ingredients of organic origin,
Each ingredient has a naturalness index defined between 0 and 1. It is provided by the manufacturer of the raw material, and this is how, based on the percentage used in the formulation, we determine the percentage of naturalness of the ingredient, then cumulatively, that of the final formula and therefore of the finished product.
In France, the recommendations of the ARPP (Professional Advertising Regulatory Authority) specify that "a cosmetic product can only be described as "natural" if the finished product contains a minimum of 95% of ingredients defined as "natural", within the meaning of ISO 16128 or any other standard at least as demanding." The same applies to cosmetic products of natural origin, which must contain a minimum of 95% of ingredients of natural origin.
It is based on this observation that at ABBI we have chosen to offer you targeted treatments,
with a minimum of 95% naturalness.
-
-
AUTHORIZED PRESERVATIVES AT ABBI
What is a preservative? What is it used for?
Behind the word conservative we can associate two facts:
-
That of protecting the formula from microbial and bacteriological attacks with the appearance
of bacteria and mold,
-
That of protecting the oily and lipid raw materials of the formula which tend to
oxidize and become rancid over time.
Thus, to be able to keep your cosmetic product in the best storage conditions and
of use, preservatives are necessary and ABBI does not deviate from the health safety rule.
The absence of preservatives in certain products is most often due to a marketing gimmick when the ingredients used naturally possess these antioxidant properties, such as Vitamin E, or when the formula does not need to be protected, because it is an anhydrous formulation without water where bacterial development does not occur.
At ABBI, we use preservatives that are free of any controversial substances, as mentioned above. We work with a cocktail of preservatives adapted to each of our galenics.
/ formulas and their need for conservation.
You can find our flagship preservative molecules here:
MOLECULES
TARGETED ACTION
Benzyl Alcohol
Broad spectrum of action on yeasts, molds and bacteria
Effective at pH 3 - 8
Salicylic Acid
Sorbic Acid
Sodium Benzoate
Inhibits germination and growth of spores.
Active on bacteria and mold.
Effective at pH 5 – 5.5
Potassium Sorbate
Chlorphenesin
Broad spectrum of action on yeasts, molds and bacteria Effective at pH 3 - 8
All our formulas are tested by carrying out microbiological tests (Challenge Test), our formulas are safe and validated according to criterion A of the European Pharmacopoeia according to ISO 11930:2019.
-
-
WHAT ABOUT ANIMAL TESTING?
It is important to note that carrying out animal tests on the territory of the European Union
is prohibited:
-
For cosmetic products since September 2004 and,
-
For cosmetic ingredients since March 2009.
In Europe, the cosmetics industry is the only one for which there is a ban on animal testing. Therefore, ABBI does not conduct animal testing, either for finished products or for the objectification of raw materials. Alternative in vitro tests have been implemented, and we use this type of testing without moderation.
-
-
WHAT ABOUT THE USE OF PERFUME WITH ALLERGENS?
Some ABBI products are formulated without allergens and others with allergens! But why?
Allergies, like everything else, depend on the individual. If we don't want allergens derived from perfume products in our cosmetics, we should use a synthetic fragrance because natural fragrances contain them! Yes, but what if we don't want synthetic fragrance in our product? Okay, but then we'll have to deal with allergens in that case, because nature can't do without allergens!
This is where the subtlety of choosing a perfume lies, because in addition to its origin, it is also important to take into account its olfactory note and its longevity!
-
EXAMPLES OF PRODUCT RATING MOBILE APPLICATIONS WHERE YOU CAN FIND ABBI PRODUCTS
At ABBI, we strive to meet your needs and expectations for transparency and ingredient knowledge.
This is why, in the long term, you will be able to find our ABBI “Ready to Use” products on various product rating applications, such as for example:
-
YUKA (from May 2022),
-
INCI BEAUTY (current 2022),
-
COSMETHICS (current 2022),
-
WHATPRODUCT (current 2022),
-
CLEAN BEAUTY (current 2022),…
-